Home again, hungry and tired

 Our travel day at the end of our snowbird experiment went off without any incident with check out, b’fast, taxi, flight check in, security, typical airport chaos and very smooth & comfortable flight home on time.  We met Don & Mari at the WestJet check in and delivered the product (cigars) he had requested we pick up at el Mercado.  Our last trip to Terraza di Roma in the Marina was great again as that became our go to eatery in PV, and mostly eliminated the potential for cansado, hambriento y sediento which has historically been a pronounced feature of our travel experiences.  Thoughts to conclude this adventure: three weeks is too long, we aren’t quite ready for an extended “do nothing but exist” style winter escape.  The Owners Club is very comfortable and in a great spot, but we found the cost to be noticeably high and left with the sense that a more cost effective arrangement must be out there somewhere in Mexico where there are clearly two economies at play.  Myles’ observation re: gerontocracy, very much applicable in the Marina vecindario. Maybe somewhere away from the purely tourist locations? Meeting up with friends and trying unique eateries was the highlight for me, we were glad to be able to host family for parts of the time also.  Golfing was the only thing we really did, which was fun to be able to do, particularly at Vista Vallarta and our last round with friends.  All in all, it is still Mexico, and all that that implies - Paradise adjacent is how I’ve come to think of it.  Some things won’t change I guess.  Anyway, feels good to be home safe and sound, grabbed bite to eat in our neighbourhood in time to see the overtime of the Super Bowl and left the laundry for mañana.  As I always say upon our return from travel, great trip, glad to be home.

Nuestra Ultima Fin de Semana

 In the ultimate down day, we lounged around the Villa most of the day cleaning out the fridge and organizing our luggage for the trip home mañana.  After a few stiff drinks and a couple cervecas, we decided to stroll down the beach and then view one last sunset

from the Nosh upper deck before getting a ringside seat at Las Casitas for the Mariachi band playing at a conference function on the lawn, not to mention a drunken shouting match at the next table to add a little piquante to the evening.  And that’s it for this experiment in a longer getaway from the dark/cold winter at home.  We didn’t make much headway in our investigations for long term rentals in and around PV, other that finding out that the PVRPV online service could be a good resource.  The Owners Club villa is very comfortable and convenient, but probably more than we need - so we’ll have to find something more appropriate if we choose to do this again next winter.

Vista Vallarta round 2

 We set up for our late afternoon golf plans by taking a short walk around the neighbourhood to inspect some projects resurrected and actually making progress.  That said, there are still some old project skeletons that don’t look likely to ever get going again.  It would be nerve wracking to invest in any new construction project in this part of the world even though there are signs of very robust economies (it has seemed generally busy with lots of people paying up Palm Springs prices for Puerto Vallarta service).  Hopped in a taxi for the short ride up the hill to Vista Vallarta which is a really beautiful golf coarse nestled in amongst barios, desert land fill and folks living rough (kinda).  Lunch on the veranda overlooking the practice facility was once more excellent with peerless service from Salvador (that statement is not sarcastic, Salvador is excellent).  We golfed with friends Deb and Ron from Karen’s golf girls group (Deb and Ron are from Penticton) who winter in Puerto Vallarta and have been doing so for many years.  

We tee’d off after 2:30 and got in before dusk after a very enjoyable round.  We were the last group in and found the usual line of taxis to be not present and had to wait.  In typical Mexico fashion from none to two cabs and then the confused melee en Español, all four of us piled into one for the short trip back to Owners Club for a cerveca before strolling over to the Marina and back to our numero uno restaurante where we had a lovely dinner to top off a great day.

Marina Vallarta Club de Golf round 3

 It may well be that in spite of how great it seemed at the time, Tacos de Cabeza el Chulo might not have been such a good idea after all?  Our plan B to run up to Sayulita was once more put off due to the necessity to not stray too far from el Baño.  Nothing too serious, but we didn’t get up to too much on this day.  Grabbed a dinner at our favourite Marina restaurante that was easy on the intestines.  Next day was Myles’ departure, so we got out for a walk around the neighborhood and then out to the beach.  For the first time this trip, we ran into a Marriot staffer blocking our path to the beach in spite of my protestations we would be having lunch at the Nosh beach bar.  Ella no habla Ingles y mi no habla Español, we just kinda pushed our way past and out onto the beach for a walk along the resort area.  Back to the Nosh for una cerveca y nachos before Myles’ final prep for his flight home.  After bartering a better cab fare, he was off and we prepped for another tee time at the Club de Golf.  Joined Bobby and Jim from Vancouver and other that the Quebecois group ahead playing at an ultra slow pace, we had fun with these two Vancouverites, even though I put one ball right through Bobby’s cart (thankfully he wasn’t in it) and shanked a sand wedge into his foot.  I think he was glad to see the last of me, just like this cocodrillo!

 Cleaned up and walked over to the Marina for our last Grande Mercado where we found the treasures we’d been seeking and had a great bowl of Tortilla Sopa y un Chili Rellano at Los Mariachiles.

Sayulita? Hoy no!

 We had a loose plan to Uber up to Sayulita and hop on the bus to return, but that plan was scuppered by a bout of tourista afflicting all of us.  Decided to let things settle without getting too far from the Villa.  Later in the afternoon, all felt well enough to head over to the Malecon to search for treasures (success!).  Also, managed to check off a couple of boxes for Myles as we located the slightly hard to find roof top cocktail bar - Twisted Palm (at least we had a hard time last year, no problemo this time, also a favourite of Deb & Ron).  After a couple of fancy drinks, we thought it a good idea to pursue one other of Myles objectives, Tacos de Cabeza el Chulo.  

We followed the map with one wrong turn which left us a bit lost.  With the help of a local carnicero and una mujer, and after showing them the name on Myles phone: Oh - muy bien right there they pointed.  This is a classic Myles choice - big lineup of locals waiting for a plate full of tacos - lengua, mejilla o labios! Sign language and Spanglish got our order in.  Pay later says the “chef”. Street meat at its finest, this was a great find and kudos to Myles to be brave enough to try it after this mornings setback!  With a 6 pack of Pacifico we pulled up a curb and savoured to tacos and the experience!  Easily found a taxi (same guy we’d had before), great discussion in broken English/Spanish about family and living in PV.  Back at the Villa, Myles shook up a pitcher of Margaritas, MacGuyver style - best yet!

Tacon de Marlin - muy bien

 After whipping up some huevos, and some relaxation at the Villa/pool (I actually had to respond to an inquiry from a new client), I finally convinced everyone to take the walk back to el aeropuerto and cross over the highway to la unica y autentico Tacon de Marlin.  It was worth the steps getting there.  This very interesting spot is hidden away under the pedestrian overpass, I had been told about it and had been trying to see it as we drove past on several occasions but only spied it the last time enroute to Vista Vallarta.  That sighting gave me the confidence to talk the tourists into walking there.  It really isn’t that far after all, and the walking was no problemo along mostly sidewalks.  

As K pointed out, the “tacos” might be better described as “burritos”,  you know how it goes (h/t to JJW). Regardless, they were huge and delicious, with a couple of cervecas to boot.  We strolled back by the Soriana for some more avocados and peppers, and then popped into see Angel for a margarita.  Amazing how a day can disappear??  Later in the evening, we decided to explore Ave. Paseo de la Marina Sur.  We walked down to the Westin and wandered around there finding nothing inspiring.  We then walked back towards the Villa, checked out the slightly larger Oxxo, and settled in at Tavola di Vittoria.  The wine list was sparse and after Myles picked one (out), two (out), three (out), we settled on something passable and ordered up a couple of pizzas, no one being particularly hungry.  If the wine was disappointing, the pizza was moreso.  We had most of it to take away and deposit for the unhoused.  That was even in spite of el dueno serving us a postre to make up for the vino tinto fiasco.  Anyway, would not recommend this establo even though it has a bright and attractive curb appeal.

La senorita de Ipanema no esta aqui?

 Myles made note on the flight down that he felt rather youthful by comparison to the other flight patrons.  And the feeling didn’t change after looking around the Marina.  Now that he has mentioned that, it has become rather striking that we don’t see a lot of young people milling about.  That observation holds true, but perhaps a bit less so even in the Zona Romantica?  After b’fast, we went for the beach walk down to the public beach access, which I still maintain can’t be the only one, and checked out the beach resorts here abouts. K&M set up at the pool for the afternoon while I went in search of fixins for speciality margaritas now that our private bartender has arrived.  It seemed to be a fin de semana largo as the traffic is down quite a bit, and sure enough Monday is dia de la constitucion!  That meant that some places on Myles go to list were closed Sunday, but we did get back over to Playa Los Muertos and made una reserva at La Palapa for a late dinner on the beach.  Killed some time wandering on the boardwalk and out onto the iconic Los Muertos Muelle.

 After finding the interesting places either too sketchy or closed, we settled in at Daquiri Dick’s for a cocktail before returning to La Palapa for another fine dining experience on the beach as we watched the PV Rocky running back and forth along the shoreline.  I am slowly getting my bearings for the cab ride back, but here again, the driver chose a rather circuitous route that seemed completely different from previous trips?  No problemo, arrived back at MV C de G ileso after Myles’ first full day in paradise adjacent.

Myles arrives - solo

 K&I got our for a walk after coffee and I showed her the back route to the Soriana and then back around to the Villa where we awaited Myles’ arrival sin Muchacho.  In spite of travelling light, he still got tied up in the chaos that is PVR.  Nevertheless, he arrived indemne and we proceeded to show him around a bit with our first stop at the Nosh for a drink and a snack, what a great spot to overlook the beach.  Then strolled around the Marina with the obligatory cervecas and margaritas at PezLimon.

Nothing inspiring so we retired once more to the Villa for some tapas and ultimately, a very ETB.

Vista Vallarta

 We were off at a relatively early hour (sin cafe para Karen) and hopped in a taxi up the hill to Vista Vallarta Club de Golf. The taxi stand right out our door is a really great feature.  Glad to have had Jane go with us last year so that we weren’t terrified driving through some very sketchy barios en camino.  Tee time at 10 o’clock qualified us for the Owner’s Club discount of 25% off the outrageous price of US$250 pp, i.e. this price was not a “promocion”! This is a very nice course and facility, but really?  Just a further note on that front, we have really sensed that el costo de la vida en Mexico has risen remarkably even in this past year!  Seems everything is comparable with costs in the lower 48, so it is challenging to take the “almost works” attitude while paying full price.  With those gripes posted for posterity, we proceeded to really enjoy the Nicholas Signature golf course on a fabulous day in almost paradise!?  

We were just a twosome and the course played quickly as we barely saw any other golfers on the course.  Golfing was characteristically hit and miss (pun intended) for us both, but I did manage to get a 2, that could have easily been a 6 (barely missed the pond!).  With a couple of Caesars under our belts on the course, we felt compelled to get Salvador to mix us up a Cadillac Marguritas or dos (or tres?) after the round with some great tacos and guacamole.  

El hermano de Jane

 After a nice desayuno at the Marina, D&M packed up and were off to Nuevo Vallarta Marival for the second half of their winter escape.  Than left K&I on a walk about to restock supplies for our next week or so.  Later on ,we hopped in a cab to run us back over to Zona Romantica to meet Jane’s brother Brian and his partner James at Restaurante El Dorado on the Beach.  What a great spot for a sunset dinner, complete with Mariachi entertainment.

 Great conversation with these Torontonians who winter here.  A minor hiccup with the cab back as the first in line didn’t have the right price and wouldn’t budge.  No matter, the ubiquitous yellow cabs buzzing around got us where we wanted to be for the correct amount.  Got back in time to have a quick stroll through the Jueves mercado and secured a dozen cigars for Don Don.

Low ebb for D&M’s last day at Marina Vallarta

 After a rollicking good night at Daquarie Dicks, next day was rather low energy, at least for myself.  Pool day for most and lounge reading consumed the day.  Sunset reservation saw us return to Las Casitas alongside the beach, unfortunately our table view was obstructed by a thatched roof hut.  K managed to get some nice shots of the sunset nonetheless, and Marcos got us a great group photo.  

Pace of dinner service was consistently glacial, but the food was excellent and we managed to get back to the Villa relatively unscathed (it is right across the street).  ETB for me.