Well after being in Florence for a week without access to this blog, I finally broke down and activated my cellphone data service so I could get the SMS code allowing me to sign and post. I’ll try and see if I can stay signed in so I don’t have to get a code each time. This is the second time that I’ve discovered that getting an eSIM for European travel and avoid excessive Roam Like Home charges is not so cost effective. This time, it is the two factor authorization system that caught me unawares. Oh well, life is a constant learning opportunity, at least for me!?! So, I’ll go from my notes and recollections to try to lay out the last five days at the very comfortable and convenient Grand Hotel Baglioni while travelling from Firenze to Napoli on the speedy Frecciarossa train.
Day 0.5 overnight flight was made more comfortable after K gifted us an upgrade to Premium Economy, unaware that if the forward row reclined, the window seat was completely trapped. In spite of the fact that a momentary loss of orological awareness left us panicking that we might have spent too much time in the Vin Room, the flight was on time and very comfortable otherwise. Connection in Frankfurt was simple and convenient and the short flight to Firenze also on time. Airport is very small and easy to find our way to the T2 tram to Centrale with the only hiccup that not all trams make the extra cut-out stop at the Unìta platform which is exceptionally close to Hotel Grand Baglioni. The second Termini platform was close enough. Checked in and while non fame e sete, molto stanche.
Day 1 in Firenze saw us head out to check out the historic Buchetta del Vino a Firenze, a system that may have had its origins during the actual plague, and a resurgence during COVID. We found only one open (Cantina di Pucci)
before getting caught in a torrential downpour that soaked us both through and only to find the Buchette we were searching for to be ferme. Undaunted, we ducked under an awning to await the rain to stop before finding our way back to Osteria del Proconsole which had looked interesting when we went by earlier and met the requirements (short menu, fresh pasta, busy). Enjoyed the first of many great dinners in this gastronomical paradise.
Day 2 saw us getting in more steps and as K has commented many times, you can’t really get lost in the Antica Firenze Centrale. We checked a couple more social media boxes, the popular foccacia sandwich
at All’antico Vinaio and a gelato affogato at Vivoli from her instagram feed. We also found some more Buchette del Vino (Matteoni, Bella Donna) Found a couple scarves that we didn’t know we couldn’t get along without. Finished off the day with a return to Ristorante Za Za which we had first checked out on our 2009 trip with Troy & Di.
Day 3 was the return trip to Fiesole for a full guided tour of the Archeological Area, the Archeological Museum and the Musei Bandini. Unfortunately, our guide was very difficult to understand and the 2 hour tour wasn’t what I’d hoped for after the very brief visit we had back in 2010 while attending the SPE ATCE. After returning to the hotel, we were off on foot once more and stumbled into Ristorante Lorenzo di Medici where we enjoyed the famous Fiorentino Bistecca and a lovely bottle of Brunero.
Topped off with a Gelato at La Sorbettiera we are definitely not fame nor sete.
Day 4 started with a stroll through the Mercato Centrale which was interesting and we got some ideas for gifts. Then just wandered aimlessly discovering Buchettes (La Tenda Rossa and Orchagna) as we went along. The old adage that you can’t drink all day if you don’t start in the morning proved accurate. We had some more wine and pizza at Toto Ristorante near Ponte Vecchio for lunch. Next stop was the Old Stove Irish Pub where we watched the Ireland v Scotland test match and downed a couple of cleansing ales. Back to the Baglioni to get wildly over dressed for our anniversary dinner at Trattoria Nella which turned out to be a great kitchen behind a tiny, cramped and chaotic establishment.
But before that, nothing would do but a BDD at the rooftop cocktail bar 701. Dinner was superb where we had Florentine Bistecca again, but the primi piatti of Pici Cacio e Pepe was particularly outstanding. Finished off with perhaps the best Tirimisu ever. Did I mention the gallon of wine? Might’ve been over-served this day.
Day 5 was a bit rough, more steps, more wine? - not so much. Found a nearby Trattoria lo Stracotto for a light dinner con acqua frizzante.
So at last, I’ve caught up to today, Monday. Up early and had our last continental b’fast at Hotel Grand Baglioni which has been more than satisfactory. Strolled over to the Mercato Centrale and found our treasures and figured out how to get a freshly prepared foccacia sandwich for the train ride to Napoli. Tried to get some cash but even at a bank, I was unable to use my bank card nor the “contactless” Wise card on my phone. Technology fails me once more. I also needed an SMS code for the WiFi on board the train - so getting my money’s worth on Roam like Home service this day????
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